Guide Trouble Comes in on Horseback and Leaves Out on A Snail

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At first you should look for snails and slugs daily, paying careful attention to potential hiding places. After the population has noticeably declined, weekly hand-picking can be sufficient. To draw out snails and slugs, water the infested area in the late afternoon.

After dark, search them out using a flashlight, pick them up rubber or latex gloves are recommended , place them in a plastic bag, and seal and dispose of them in the trash. Alternatively, crush captured snails and leave them in the garden. You can trap snails and slugs beneath boards or flower pots that you position throughout the garden and landscape. Inverted melon rinds also make good traps. Construct wooden traps using by inch boards or any easy-to-handle size raised off the ground by 1-inch runners.

The runners make it easy for the pests to crawl underneath.

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Scrape off the accumulated snails and slugs daily and destroy them see hand-picking. Do not use salt to destroy snails and slugs, as it will increase soil salinity. Some people use beer-baited traps buried at ground level to catch and drown slugs and snails that fall into them. Because it is the fermented part of the product that attracts these pests, you can also use a sugar-water and yeast mixture instead of beer see Cranshaw, Traps must have deep vertical sides to keep the snails and slugs from crawling out and a top to reduce evaporation.

These types of traps are available at garden supply stores, or you can make your own by burying a coffee can, margarine container, or plastic bottle with the top at ground level and placing a lid with holes cut into it over the container. Several types of barriers will keep snails and slugs out of planting beds.

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The easiest to maintain are those made with copper flashing and screen. It is believed that copper barriers are effective because the copper reacts with the slime that snails and slugs secrete, causing a disruption in their nervous system similar to an electric shock. When erecting vertical copper screens, it is best to use a strip that is at least 2 inches tall so you can bury a portion of it 1 to 2 inches below the soil to prevent slugs from crawling beneath the barrier. Copper foil or tape wrapped around planting boxes, headers, or trunks will repel snails until it becomes tarnished.

If the bands do tarnish, you can clean them with a vinegar solution. When banding tree trunks , wrap the copper foil around the trunk and cut it to allow an 8-inch overlap. Attach one end or the middle of the band to the trunk with one staple oriented parallel to the trunk. Overlap and fasten the ends with one or two large paper clips to allow the copper band to slide as the trunk grows.

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When using copper bands on planter boxes, be sure the soil within the boxes is snail-free before applying them. If this is not the case, hand-pick and remove any snails and slugs that are present after applying the band but before planting new plants until the box is free of these pests. Barriers of dry diatomaceous earth, heaped in a band 1 inch high and 3 inches wide around the garden, can also be effective. However, these barriers lose their effectiveness after becoming damp, making them difficult to maintain and not very useful in most garden situations.

Crushed egg shells or coffee grounds have not been shown to be effective deterrents. Snails and slugs have many natural enemies, including ground beetles, rats, pathogens, snakes, toads, turtles, and both domestic and wild birds. Most are rarely effective enough to provide satisfactory control in the garden. One predator found in some California gardens is a large Staphylinid beetle called the devil's coach horse , Ocypus olens.

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However, this beetle, which is more than an inch long, will also feed on ripening or decaying fruits and vegetables. Domesticated fowl such as ducks, geese, or chickens kept penned in infested areas can be effective snail predators that significantly reduce problems. Seedlings must be protected from feeding damage from these birds. The predatory decollate snail , Rumina decollata , is used in Southern California citrus groves and other crops, gardens, and landscapes to control young brown garden snails and can provide very effective biological control. Decollate snails can also feed on seedlings, small plants, and flowers, although they are less problematic than brown snails.

Snail baits will kill decollate snails. You should not use baits where these predators are active. Even in counties where decollate snails are permitted, they should not be introduced in or near natural areas because of the potential danger to endangered native snails. Several types of snail and slug bait products molluscicides are available. Snail and slug baits can be effective when used properly and in conjunction with a cultural program that incorporates the other methods discussed above.

Baits alone will not effectively control snails or slugs in the long term. Baits are also toxic to all snails and slugs, including the predatory decollate snail and native species.

Iron phosphate baits—available under many trade names, including Sluggo and Slug Magic, have the advantage of being safer for use around children, domestic animals, birds, fish, and other wildlife. Some formulations are listed as acceptable for use for organic systems. They are a good choice for an integrated pest management IPM program in your garden. Ingesting even small amounts of the bait will cause snails and slugs to stop feeding, although it can take several days to a week for the snails to die. Snails and slugs tend to hide under plants or in other dark areas before they die, so you will not see scattered empty shells or dead snails and slugs as you would if treating them with metaldehyde.

Some formulations of iron phosphate include the insecticide spinosad to increase the spectrum of pests controlled e. Sluggo Plus. Spinosad is an insecticide that will control earwigs and cutworms. These products can also be used in organic systems. Products that contain ferric sodium EDTA e. EDTA is used to make the ferric which is also iron more available and, therefore, kills the mollusks faster.

Products containing ferric sodium EDTA are not labeled for organic use. Molluscicides that have sulfur as the active ingredient e.

Trouble Comes in on Horseback and Leaves Out on A Snail

Baits containing the active ingredient metaldehyde are common. However, metaldehyde baits are particularly poisonous to dogs and cats, and the pelleted form can be attractive to dogs. Do not use metaldehyde snail baits where children and pets could encounter them. Avoid getting metaldehyde bait on plants, especially vegetables. Some metaldehyde products are formulated with carbaryl, partly to increase the spectrum of pests controlled, such as soil- and debris-dwelling insects, spiders, and sowbugs.

Carbaryl is toxic to earthworms and to soil-inhabiting beneficial insects, such as ground beetles; therefore, it is better to avoid using snail baits containing this active ingredient. Baits containing only metaldehyde are most reliable when temperatures are warm or during periods of lower humidity. The pests usually die within one day of ingesting the chemical or getting it on their foot.

If cool, wet weather follows the baiting, they can recover if they ingest a sublethal dose. Some metaldehyde baits break down rapidly when exposed to sunlight and high moisture from rain or irrigation. If high rainfall or irrigation is unavoidable, look for products that say they are rainfast or resistant to moisture breakdown on the label.

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Placement of baits. For any of the baits, sprinkle them on the soil in areas that snails and slugs regularly frequent, near but not on plants that are attractive to the pests or near pest hiding places such as irrigation boxes. Applying baits repeatedly in the same areas maximizes control, because mollusks tend to return to food source sites. Never pile bait in mounds or clumps, especially those products that are more hazardous. Piling makes bait attractive to pets and children and is not as effective as sprinkling. Piles also tend to clump when wetted, making them less effective.

The timing of any baiting is critical. Baiting is less effective during very hot, very dry, or cold times of the year because snails and slugs are less active during these periods. Applying the bait in the late afternoon or evening when snails and slugs are active will take advantage of the nighttime feeding habits of these pests and will improve the success of baiting.

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Species of apple snails have invaded countries around the world, but climate models show they have the potential to infest even more, like India and Australia, according to Columbia University's Introduced Species Summary Project. The California Department of Fish and Wildlife warns apple snails could threaten rice crops in the state's Central Valley. On the Salt River, apple snails have expanded their territory. They already glide along Tempe Town Lake, Sorensen said. And he'll assess an infestation at the Tres Rios Wetlands in the coming months.

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Fewer eggs will hatch as more people do it, he said. Local kayaker Bea Valdez recently reached her paddle into a stand of cattails from her kayak, whacking the pink egg clusters into the water. She lives near the Salt River and paddles downstream about every two weeks. She had noticed the eggs, but didn't know they were invasive until about two months ago when she researched apple snails after her daughter found several in the water.

Since then she has been knocking the eggs into the water. She hopes it will help preserve the Salt River for her grandchildren and future generations. Environmental coverage on azcentral. Israel Garcia, a biologist at the Arizona Game and Fish Department, pulls an invasive apple snail from the backwaters of the Salt River on July 20, Israel Garcia right , a biologist at the Arizona Game and Fish Department, and Kayla Wrolson, an intern for the department, paddle into a stand of cattail reeds to knock invasive apple snail eggs into the water on the Salt River on July 20,